Running shorts!! - Moxie shorts sewing pattern and how to make them longer

three-rogas.jpg
Running shorts inspiration and former favorite: Oiselle Roga shorts.

Despite my intentions to stop wearing my workout clothing when I'm not exercising, as I mentioned in my last post, I do love my workout clothes and still wear them 90% of the time. This is why I am excited to have discovered a new-to me independent sewing pattern company that has well drafted patterns for activewear that are the same styles I have been spending a fortune on for years. I have made six different patterns from GreenstyleCreations, which I will eventually blog about. For now, I will focus on the Moxie Shorts pattern.

 I was excited to try this pattern because it has all the features of my former favorite Oiselle shorts (shown above) plus a better positioned zip pocket. In addition to a back zip pocket in the waistband, there is the option of adding a built in bikini brief or thong. I like the back pocket positioned in the center back because using the right side rear zip pocket of the oiselle shorts always makes me feel a little lopsided and makes the shorts hang to one side.

Key to getting my desired look was finding a fabric similar to my inspiration Oiselle shorts: a stretch woven nylon with nice drape, which I found at Fabric Fairy.  Fabrics used for the pairs in these photos are black stretch woven from fabric fairy for the main short fabric, LLL supplex lycra in enamel blue from Peak Fabrics for the waistband, and some scraps of LLL yogawear dry-flex solid in turquoise for the bias binding.




My first pair of Moxie shorts (shown at left in images below) were a little shorter than I am comfortable with. I added 2 inches to the inseam of the shorts and am happy with the results.

Moxie shorts, front view. 2 inch inseam shown on left, 4.5 inch inseam shown on right.

Moxie shorts, back view. 2 inch inseam shown on left, 4.5 inch inseam shown on right.

Tutorial - how to add length to the Moxie short pattern:

To make the shorts longer, length must be added to the front pattern piece, upper back pattern piece, and lower back pattern piece at the hem:


Adding length to Moxie shorts Front pattern piece


1. Trace the pattern piece to another piece of paper, or tape the pattern piece to another piece of paper ( my usual, lazier method)

2. Take a clear ruler and measure down from the hem the length you wish to add. Here I am adding 2 inches. The pink pen shows the original hem line for reference. My pencil is where I am marking the new hem.

3. Redraw the new hem using the grading marks on the original pattern as a guide for the overall curve of the line.






Adding length to Moxie shorts lower Back pattern piece



 
Adding length to Moxie shorts Upper back pattern piece
When adding length to the upper back piece, only the part at the side that will overlap the front piece needs to be lengthened. I used the grading lines to draw a similar curve after adding 2 inches.
 Shown at left is what the pattern pieces look like after adding length to the hem.  This is also how the pieces are joined in the final garment.  The waistband pieces are not shown, only the three pattern pieces that have been altered.









After adding length to the pattern I did need to reduce the fullness of the leg opening, as directed in step #8, page 10 of the pdf sewing instructions. 


I watched this video to help me get the construction order correct when assembling the shorts on the first try. Joining the upper and lower back portions can be a bit tricky the first time.
A comment on sewing this knit bias binding -  I used my regular sewing machine the first time and the result was a little uneven. For the second pair, I found using the single chain stitch on my coverstitch machine gave a much nicer result. I will probably cut it from stretch woven fabric in the future, but really wanted to get the contrasting turquoise color for these pairs.


Here are the longer inseam (and cover-stitched binding) shown at left compared with the original inseam at right.

I love my new shorts and can't wait to make a few more pairs!!
Thanks for reading.
Stay tuned for more Greenstylecreations active wear pattern reviews coming soon...









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